Hey wine lovers! We recently embarked on an unforgettable wine study trip to Istria, a stunning peninsula in the northwest of Croatia. With its rich history, Mediterranean charm, and incredible wine scene, Istria is a must-visit destination for any wine enthusiast. Come along as we share the highlights and tasting notes from our journey through this wine lover’s paradise!
Getting to Istria
Reaching Istria is easy and scenic! You can fly into Trieste Airport in Italy, just 130 km from Poreč. Alternatively, there are direct flights from across Europe to Pula, only 60 km from Poreč, where we stayed during our trip.
What Makes Istria Special?
Istria is known for its blend of Italian, Croatian, and Slovenian influences, Mediterranean climate, and centuries-old winemaking traditions. Its rolling hills and beautiful landscapes set the perfect backdrop for a wine holiday, offering a fascinating exploration of both history and taste.
A Glimpse into Istria’s Rich History
Istria’s history is intertwined with many European empires, from the Roman and Byzantine to the Venetian and Austrian. After shifting to Yugoslavia in the 20th century, Istria has been part of Croatia since 1994, and its multicultural heritage is reflected in its vibrant wine culture.
Our Wine Adventure Begins
Day 1: AgroLaguna and Franković Wineries
We landed early in Ljubljana and enjoyed a scenic two-hour transfer to Poreč. Our first stop was AgroLaguna, a leader in Istrian viticulture and olive growing. Once part of a cooperative under Yugoslavia’s communist regime, AgroLaguna now produces some of Croatia’s finest wines, including the Festigia Blanc de Moi (85% Malvasia Istriana, 15% Pinot Blanc), which impressed us with its aromatic and balanced profile. We also tasted their Vina Laguna 2023 Malvazija Istarska, a fresh, aromatic white with a slight bitterness on the finish. Comparing the 2023 and 2013 vintages of Malvazija Istarska, we noted the darker, richer colour of the older wine, with complex apple, citrus, and mineral aromas, and a longer, more evolved finish.
Next, we headed to Franković Winery in Buje, where we were treated to a meal of traditional Istrian pasta with truffles, paired with Pjenusac Stella, a sparkling white wine with a rich, complex taste and full body. Their golden Malvazija, with hints of citrus and characteristic peach and pineapple aromas, was a standout. For dinner, we enjoyed roasted lamb paired with Teran wine, known for its notes of wild berries and earthy richness. We ended with a divine Moscato Luna D’Oro 2021, a semi-dry Muscat with Turkish delight aromas and a delicate hint of rose water.
Day 2: Masterclass and Michelin-Recommended Dining
The second day kicked off with a masterclass by Caroline Gilby, a renowned specialist in Balkan wines. We learned how Istria’s varied soils and climate create distinctive wines—red soils near the coast produce wines with lower acidity, while inland white soils, influenced by more rainfall, contribute to higher acidity and later harvests.
We also delved deeper into Malvazija Istriana, a grape that reflects the region’s terroir beautifully. Before Phylloxera, Istria was predominantly a red wine producer, but Malvazija has since become a star, showcasing the influence of the soil, sun, and sea.
Lunch at the Michelin-recommended Konoba Buščina introduced us to Matošević wines, a winery that focuses on sustainability. We particularly loved the Matošević Alba Robinia 2020, a 100% Malvazija Istarska aged in acacia barrels, which imparted a fresh, floral profile with a hint of honey. The meal and wine pairings were simply unforgettable.
We concluded the day by tasting some of Istria’s finest wines, as rated by Decanter Magazine, while watching the sun set over the Adriatic. The combination of award-winning wines and stunning views made for an epic Istrian celebration that lasted long into the night.
Day 3: Helicopter Rides and Winery Visits
Day three was full of excitement, beginning with a helicopter ride over Istria’s breathtaking landscapes. We started our wine adventure at Rossi Winery, a family-owned estate since 1885. Here, we sampled their Malvazija Istarska 2023, which was fresh, crisp, and easy to drink. We also tried the creamy Templará Monte D’Oro, aged in oak but with a balanced and subtle finish. Their Monte D’Oro Riserva, grown in high-altitude vineyards, was more full-bodied, with oak and buttery notes—a true highlight of the tasting.
After our exhilarating helicopter ride, we landed at Meneghetti Wine Hotel and Resort in Bale. We were welcomed with the elegant Meneghetti Reserva 2016 Brut, a sparkling wine with cherry and strawberry notes, rounded and smooth on the palate. A vertical tasting of their white and red lines revealed the complexity of their wines, with our favourite being the 2015 White, a beautiful blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, with melon, nuts, and a creamy texture that lingered on the palate.
We ended our day with visits to two more renowned wineries. At Kabola Winery, a pioneer in using amphoras for wine production, we were charmed by their Kabola Re Brut, a refreshing sparkling wine with pear and lemon peel notes, and their amphora-aged Malvazija, which had complex aromas of grass, dried fruit, and almond with a long, intense finish.
Our final stop was the Kozlović Winery, where we were welcomed with a refreshing Sparkling Rosé from Teran 2017, a dry rosé with no added sugar—exactly what we needed after a long day of exploring. We then sampled their 2015 Malvazija from Santa Lucia, which had undergone nine months of maceration in barrels. This wine showcased elegant floral and dried fruit aromas, with a deep golden hue, full body, and a long-lasting finish, proving the aging potential of Malvazija Istarska.
Our wine study trip through Istria was nothing short of magical. From the scenic landscapes and rich history to the unforgettable wines, Istria is a hidden gem that any wine lover should explore. Whether you prefer fresh whites, bold reds, or unique sparkling wines, Istria offers a rich tapestry of flavours and experiences. We can’t wait to return and continue our journey through this beautiful region!