In mid-October, we left behind London’s grey skies and set off for sunny Provence to visit friends and cheer them on at the Roc d’Azur—the world’s largest mountain biking event, welcoming riders of all levels. Our weekend escape took us to Fréjus, a charming Provençal town with Roman roots dating back over 2,000 years, nestled in the heart of the region’s wine country.
Our adventure in Provence was an immersion in the French way of life, complete with delightful meals, wine pairings, and hidden gems of the region. Here’s a taste of our trip from breakfast to dinner, with a few insider tips for experiencing Provence like a local.
The closest airport to Fréjus is Nice, just a 45-minute drive away, making it easy to arrive in time for a sunset stroll along the beach to Saint-Raphaël in a blissful 25-degree warmth. With a gentle breeze and laid-back vibe, it was exactly the welcome we needed.
That evening, we enjoyed an authentic French dinner at our friends’ house. We started with Crémant de Bourgogne and saucisson, followed by grilled bavette andvegetables—a true French experience. We finished with a cheese board featuring local favourites like Fourme d’Ambert, aged Gouda, and Époisses, paired with a lovely red from Provence.
Friday dawned bright and sunny. After some work and bike fixing, we settled in the garden for a delicious lunch of tomato tart, salad, and, of course, more cheese. Later, we rewarded ourselves with fresh pastries and coffee before exploring the old town of Fréjus. Dinner that night was a hearty pasta carbonara paired with Champagne to toast the upcoming competition—a delicious match and a perfect pre-race feast!
After a full day of cheering on the racers at the Roc d’Azur on Saturday, we treated ourselves to dinner at La Table. The magret de canard, and Cote de boeuf, accompanied by a French Provence red wine, was divine, and we ended the evening on a high note with crème brûlée and pain perdu that satisfied every sweet craving.
The Wine of Provence: A Taste Unlike Any Other
Provence’s wines have a unique personality, shaped by its warm Mediterranean climate, mineral-rich soils, and the mistral wind that sweeps through the vineyards. Unlike other French regions, Provence specialises almost entirely in rosé, which is distinctively pale and dry and makes up around 90% of its wine production. Red and white wines are also crafted here, often showcasing local varieties like Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Vermentino.
Provence rosé: It’s crispiness, with subtle notes of strawberry, citrus, and herbs, make it a perfect for pairing with the region’s seafood dishes or light Mediterranean fare. A local pairing classic is bouillabaisse, a rich, aromatic fish stew often served with garlic aioli and crusty bread.
Provence red: For red wine lovers, the bolder reds of Bandol, another Provençal specialty, are perfect with dishes like lamb or the iconic ratatouille, which brings out the wine’s earthy, spicy notes.
Exploring Nice: The Perfect Finale
On our final day, we made our way to Nice. With temperatures climbing to nearly 30 degrees, we regretted not bringing swimwear! But even without a beach day, we loved wandering the old town, visiting the castle, and sampling treats at the market, including nougat—a traditional favourite. Nice was even more captivating than we’d imagined, with elegant charm, cinematic streets, and a lively atmosphere. Visiting during the quieter season allowed us to enjoy its beauty at a relaxed pace, sharing moments with local friends and daydreaming about future retirement plans in this lovely region (after brushing up on our French, of course!). After 12,000 steps—yes, we checked!—we were ready for homemade Argentinian-style empanadas and yet another delicious local wine.
Our whirlwind weekend in Provence left us hungry for more. Next time, we’ll be back for a whole week to dive even deeper into this charming region, from tasting more Provençal wines to finding hidden culinary gems. Whether you’re a food lover, wine enthusiast, or simply craving a slice of French elegance, Provence is a region that promises to enchant, sip after sip, and dish after dish.